Grouping #4

Over the past week, I have used Google Scholar a lot to find specific secondary articles for my project on Patagonia. Because of their transparency and open message about their ideals, I was able to find a number of articles related directly to Patagonia and scholars who have used Patagonia’s mission in relation to wider sociological approaches. I think that the mapping exercises that we have been doing in class has really opened my eyes to how my sources relate to each other. As I want my project to be a sort of timeline of how Patagonia’s green movement has solidified their spot in the fashion industry over the years, I think it is important to get multiple perspective.

I was able to divide my sources into: primary interviews directly with head directors of Patagonia, newspaper articles, scholarly articles that discuss the symbolism and history of Patagonia, and analysis articles which highlights Patagonia’s connection to broader ideas such as brand loyalty, consumerism, and impact on green fashion. I think I would like to use the historical aspect as a framework for the project to allow the audience to learn more about the brand before getting into their environmental and political endeavors.

Annotated Bibliography #2

Primary Sources

Beer, Jeff. “Exclusive: ‘Patagonia Is in Business to Save Our Home Planet.”.” Fast Company, Fast Company, 13 Dec. 2018, www.fastcompany.com/90280950/exclusive-patagonia-is-in-business-to-save-our-home-planet.

  • Yvon Chouinard, founder of Patagonia, changes the company’s mission statement to “Patagonia is in business to save our home planet.” The change is a direct response to “climate crisis” and is a result of scientific reports projecting massive societal and economical impact due to climate change. Patagonia’s focus narrows to three priorities: “agriculture, politics, and protected lands.” These priorities translate into “regenerative agriculture”, political endorsements, and donating to conservations in order to establish new protected lands.

DeLeon, Jian. “History of Patagonia – Building a Brand That Lasts.” Highsnobiety, Highsnobiety, 25 Sept. 2018, www.highsnobiety.com/p/patagonia-brand-history-highsnobiety-book/.

  • Patagonia was birthed from grassroots beginnings and its founder, Yvon, sought to create synthetic alternative fabrics through “sustainable methods of productions”. Beyond fabrics, Patagonia has been a pioneer in brand transparency, raising “awareness and advocacy for environmental issues.” Through the brand’s advocacy for the outdoors, outspoken politics, and anti-consumerist campaigns, Patagonia has held a consistent brand vision which has not only affected the green movement but also influenced its consumers and other brands to follow its methods.

Engel, Allison. “Inside Patagonia’s Operation to Keep Clothing out of Landfills.” The Washington Post, WP Company, 31 Aug. 2018, www.washingtonpost.com/business/inside-patagonias-operation-to-keep-you-from-buying-new-gear/2018/08/31/d3d1fab4-ac8c-11e8-b1da-ff7faa680710_story.html?noredirect=on&utm_term=.ac93646d4f57.

  • Patagonia’s “recycling and repair program”, Worn Wear, has been operating since 2005 to help reduce clothing consumption. With up to “600 items a week”, their renovation center is devoted fixing Patagonia garments no matter the age, “no questions asked.” Their efforts have also spread globally through Worn Wear trailers which visit various countries in order to help repair clothing. Through this process, Patagonia recycles and upcycles materials in order to reduce waste.

Secondary Sources

Dabija, Dan-Cristian. “Enhancing Green Loyalty towards Apparel Retail Stores: A Cross-Generational Analysis on an Emerging Market.” Journal of Open Innovation: Technology, Market, and Complexity, vol. 4, no. 1, Mar. 2018, p. 8. Springer Link, doi:10.1186/s40852-018-0090-7.

  • The article is composed of a literature analysis and methodology discussing how retailers approach environmentalism and sustainable practices. The literature analysis discusses the problems of trying to be sustainable while also trying to satisfy the demands of consumers. It points towards issues of costs of production and low profitability. The analysis evaluates the sentiments of a wide range of age groups in order to discover their loyalty and feelings towards “green” brands. The surveys reveal that the youngest consumer care most about green movements, Gen Xers care less, and Baby Boomers care only about brands with clear connections to their mission.

Labrague, Michelle. “Patagonia, A Case Study in the Historical Development of Slow Thinking.” Journal of Design History, vol. 30, no. 2, May 2017, pp. 175–91. academic.oup.com, doi:10.1093/jdh/epw050.

  • This article discusses Patagonia’s relationship with “Slow Thinking”, a form of design and way of life which fuses together environmentalism and practicality after the mid-20th century. Labrague details the history and symbolism behind Patagonia’s logo and leads into Patagonia’s mission to create durable, technical clothing that is also sustainable. The analysis of Patagonia’s catalog reveals that ecological values are Patagonia’s priority and that slow thinking remains vital across various disciplines as it continues to bring up environmental debates in design and commerce.

Tertiary Sources

Secondary Source Reports #2

Source 4: Labrague, Michelle. “Patagonia, A Case Study in the Historical Development of Slow Thinking.” Journal of Design History, vol. 30, no. 2, May 2017, pp. 175–91. academic.oup.com, doi:10.1093/jdh/epw050.

Thesis 4: “Slow design’s combining of design thinking and practice with activism and environmental concerns has roots in these previous developments. Design researcher Alistair Fuad-Luke has stated that ‘slow acts as a way of reframing eco and sustainable design’ within current design debates. Therefore, slow marks shifting values and meanings of sustainability and expands already existing histories. This article builds on Fuad-Luke’s argument by using slow as a framework for sustainability. Slow cultural practices are underpinned by an ethical outlook, which opens them to further exploration. (176)”

Restatement: As slow thinking shifts environmentalism and increases ways of thinking about sustainability, Patagonia’s catalogue is a prime example of how slow design can create conversations about the relationship between green thinking and commercialism.

Structure 4: The article is divided into three sections: analysis of Patagonia’s catalogue in relation to slow thinking, Patagonia’s relationship with fashion, and Patagonia’s design process as an ideological distribution network (177).

In the first section, Labrague dives into the history behind the brand’s logo and relates it to “deep green” movement, tying together the brand’s identity with slow thinking ideology as they expose their consumer to the beauty of nature. In the second, she states, “durability is prized and fashion is positioned as an entity separate from Patagonia performance-wear. (183)” Patagonia detaches itself from the fashion world by placing its garments’ utilitarianism above all and works to create a perfect product. The third section notes Patagonia’s asceticism and dedication to their ideology of reducing environmental impacts. It “betrays” deep green thinking by allow itself to coexist with nature rather than bending to nature’s will (187).

Strategies 4: How I viewed the three categories was: story, relation to modern examples, and ideologies. I enjoyed learning the history of Patagonia as well as the history in symbols behind their logo. This seems like a powerful hook that appeals to many people. The transition into “how does this relate to fashion” and design definitely would not have been as smooth without the previous section. I think I’d want to lead off my project with some interesting information about the brand before diving into their works and effects. This would allow the audience to get a quick grasp of Patagonia’s values.

Source 5: Dabija, Dan-Cristian. “Enhancing Green Loyalty towards Apparel Retail Stores: A Cross-Generational Analysis on an Emerging Market.” Journal of Open Innovation: Technology, Market, and Complexity, vol. 4, no. 1, Mar. 2018, p. 8. Springer Link, doi:10.1186/s40852-018-0090-7.

Thesis 5:

“In this context, consistent integration of good practices related to environmental protection and the preservation of resources with market-targeting and development strategies for the implementation of environmental protection measures, activities and actions within daily operations has become a pressing matter for modern companies. (2)”

In current times, environmentalism and sustainability practices are sought after qualities by consumers which forces companies to account for these issues in daily operations.

Structure 5:

The article is divided into a literature review and method analysis. In its lit. review, the piece talks about problem of wanting to be environmentally friendly and satisfying demand from consumers. Other issues raised are costs of production and reduction of financial income. It points towards several examples of fashion brands that have introduced green initiatives and analysis that shows that modern consumers tie brand loyalty with sustainability. They utilized thousands of surveys in order to conclude that the youngest generation of consumer care most about the green movement, Gen Xers less, and Baby Boomers only caring most about brands with clear missions tied to their practices.

Strategies 5:

  1. I enjoyed their use of generational theory in addressing how different generational groups of consumers approach the green movement.
  2. Their narrow scope on the market of Romania is an interesting approach.

Annotated Bibliography #1

Primary Sources

Bauck, Whitney. “Patagonia’s CEO on How Saving the Planet Has Been Good for Business.” Fashionista, https://fashionista.com/2019/01/patagonia-politics-ceo-rose-marcario-interview. Accessed 27 Feb. 2019.

  • The article contains an interview with Patagonia’s CEO and President, Rosie Macario. Macario addresses their decision to sue the Trump administration, stance on climate change, and philanthropic plans. She then discusses their supply chain wherein Patagonia uses recycled materials to make their clothing and how that affects the environment. This article would be well suited for my project because it provides direct thoughts from a major person in the company and solidifies that their environmentalism is not just a “Green marketing gimmick”.

Gelles, David. “Patagonia v. Trump.” The New York Times, 5 May 2018. NYTimes.com, https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/05/business/patagonia-trump-bears-ears.html.

  • The New York Times dissects Patagonia’s lawsuit against Trump’s plans to reduce the size of two national monument. Unapologetically political, Patagonia made their case by citing that “the Antiquities Act of 1906 gave presidents the power to create national monuments. But it did not grant the power to reduce them.” It further highlights Patagonia’s many campaigns against consumerism and the Trump administration as well as their advocacy for the environment.

Secondary Sources

Gurova, Olga, and Daria Morozova. “A Critical Approach to Sustainable Fashion: Practices of Clothing Designers in the Kallio Neighborhood of Helsinki.” Journal of Consumer Culture, vol. 18, no. 3, Aug. 2018, pp. 397–413. SAGE Journals, doi:10.1177/1469540516668227.

  • The authors explore the idea of sustainable fashion and apply it to the practices of a group of clothiers in Helsinki. They conducted interviews, observed their daily practices, and created a film based on their experiences. In their conclusion, they discovered that “green” fashion is a growing consumer demand and is mostly found with urban youths. They also discuss the idea of “green marketing” where environmentalism is used as a marketing tactic rather than an earnest message.

Bosco, Mary-Clare. “From Yosemite to a Global Market: How Patagonia, Inc. Has Created an Environmentally Sustainable and Socially Equitable Model of Supply-Chain Management.” Pomona Senior Theses, Jan. 2017, https://scholarship.claremont.edu/pomona_theses/178.

  • A senior thesis which explores Patagonia through its history, environmentalism, and sustainable business model. Bosco analyzes Patagonia’s supply-chain model in which the company carefully monitors the activities from the source raw materials to the end consumers. She concludes that Patagonia has influenced a large market in the fashion landscape through its business model and have developed stronger customer relationships.

Shen, Bin. “Sustainable Fashion Supply Chain: Lessons from H&M.” Sustainability, vol. 6, no. 9, Sept. 2014, pp. 6236–49. www.mdpi.com, doi:10.3390/su6096236.

  • Shen’s article explores H&M through its model of sustainability. This article is used to contrast Patagonia’s green policies and advocacy. Shen discusses H&M’s supply chain, operations, and its true position on sustainability.

Tertiary Sources

Secondary Source Reports

Source 1: Gurova, Olga, and Daria Morozova. “A Critical Approach to Sustainable Fashion: Practices of Clothing Designers in the Kallio Neighborhood of Helsinki.” Journal of Consumer Culture, vol. 18, no. 3, Aug. 2018, pp. 397–413, doi:10.1177/1469540516668227.

Thesis: “The emergence of designers who follow the concept of sustainability is connected to a wider urban regeneration, given that their studios are located in a district of the city of Helsinki – a former working-class area called Kallio – populated by young creatives. The main questions addressed in this article are how do clothing designers and seamstresses in Kallio practice sustainable fashion, what challenges do they face, and how do they interpret these challenges (398).”

Restatement: There is a new wave of sustainable fashion designers in Helsinki, predominantly made by urban, young creatives. What are the challenges they face and how do they interpret these challenges?

Structure 1: Following an abstract and introduction, Gurova and Morozova introduces a literature review which consists of various ways the fashion industry is fighting against waste (399). The review focuses on “social and institutional issues” and the authors continue to provide a critical approach in the next section (399). For methodology, they conducted interviews on seamstresses and designers within the region, observed their practices, and produced a film on their findings (401). In their conclusion, they found that sustainable fashion can either be a marketing gimmick or an honest passion from younger creatives, however, by choosing to take part in production, they are not truly working towards a green cause (410).

Strategies: Bring in sociological approaches, narrow on one specific group, address typical concerns about issue.

Source 2: Bosco, Mary-Clare. “From Yosemite to a Global Market: How Patagonia, Inc. has Created an Environmentally Sustainable and Socially
Equitable Model of Supply-Chain Management”. Pomona Senior Theses, 2017. MDPI, http://scholarship.claremont.edu/pomona_theses/178.

Thesis 2: “The effects of Patagonia’s responsible commitment to the environment have seeped into all aspects of their corporate structure. This dedication to the precious natural lands of our planet, coupled with the company’s honest, trustworthy business practices have contributed to its positive reputation amongst consumers, which in turn gave Patagonia the sales success and influence across market sectors that it has today (4).

Restatement: Through Patagonia’s environmental dedication and green corporate policies, their message of sustainability has influenced younger creatives and a new wave of fashion.

Structure 2: It is a senior thesis. Their structure is: Abstract, Introduction, Definition and History, Differences between other brands, Corporate structure, Environmental psychology and consumer behaviors, and conclusions.

Strategies 2: While I think providing a multipage history of the brand was a bit overkill, I enjoyed learning a small part of it to see how it relates to the whole. I think her analysis of Patagonia’s business model and supply chain is very interesting. The dive into sociology and consumer behavior is definitely something I want to utilize in my project.

Source 3: Shen, Bin. “Sustainable Fashion Supply Chain: Lessons from H&M.” Sustainability, vol. 6, no. 9, Sep. 2014, pp.6236-6249, doi:10.3390/su6096236.

Thesis 3: “As a famous global brand, H&M is sufficiently representative to examine the sustainable fashion supply chain. Our objectives in this paper are: (1) to identify the structure of sustainable fashion supply chain; (2) based on the structure, to investigate the sustainable operations at H&M; (3) to discuss the lessons of H&M’s sustainable fashion supply chain from the country perspective (6237).”

Restatement: H&M’s model allows us to examine it through the lens of sustainability. In this paper, we will identify its’ supply chain structure, investigate the sustainable operations at H&M, and discuss it from the country perspective.

Structure 3: The structure is similar to the first article. Intro, Lit Review, Data, Conclusion. Shen’s data utilize a sustainable society index to uncover its conclusion that H&M primarily serves human wellbeing and economic wellbeing over environmental wellbeing (6242-6246).

Strategies 3: While it would be easier to do a captivating story, I still want to incorporate some type of data into my project. I think I want to visualize the data they freely provided in their 2017 corporate report.

narrower #3

All of the received feedback on my project and wireframe shared a single theme: I need to narrow my scope. Initially, I planned to have a very generalized timeline of men’s fashion, but I realized that the wider I go, the shallower I’ll dive and I won’t be satisfied with what I have in three weeks.

My discussion with the group and CIS meeting gave me a different perspective on my project and helped me centralize on one theme. As of right now some options are: focus on an Instagram influencer and their relation to masculine marketing and masculinity in hip-hop throughout the 2000s. I’m still very interested in doing the timeline, however I decided to steer clear of the analytic side.

Wireframe (Tony)

Simplicity is key.

I want my site to be clear and concise. It will consist of a timeline of runways, a timeline of stock prices, and my research and conclusions from the project. The “about” will just be a brief biography.

The timeline will have clickable photos with dates, titles, and information on how it relates to the timeline. The analytics will consist have several major brands and their stock prices over time. I might even add another pop up with information on each brand.

Heavily inspired by MoMA’s site.

Green Garments – Patagonia’s Sustainability in a Consumerist Industry (rev.)

Proposal: I am researching the history of the brand Patagonia and their role as an environmentally conscious company in contemporary fashion. I want to understand their stance on modern fashion, company identity, and political activism during this period of fast fashion. I think that it is important to see visualize their emphasis on the environment despite their place in a consumerist society.

Data: There are various articles through JSTOR and Google Scholar on environmentally friendly and sustainable clothing. Many of these are recent articles and can point towards societal behavior demanding change in the industry. Many articles, including ones written by Patagonia, are available about their own practices and stances.

Pros:

Plenty of internet sources, primary & secondary.

Cons:

Unsure if timeline is a great choice anymore, unsure of what programs to use. Possibly just detailed analysis and reading similar to Snowfall.

Social Media & Networking Plan:

Twitter – TBD

I am planning to tweet at major YouTube influencers, content creators, and insiders in the fashion industry as I know they are constantly seeking content for their channels and platforms. I am also planning on using Reddit (r/malefashionadvice) to share my findings on Patagonia using their Daily Discussion posts. Because they are such a large and diverse hub of clothing enthusiasts, I believe that many will find interest in what I am doing.

Implementation (Tony #2)

Our classes this week really made me think about the implementation of some of the features I want to have my project. During our in-class critique and website analysis, I was able to narrow things down and cut off certain aspects of the site. I was surprised to see a timeline Flash project that worked fairly well despite its dated program. From there, I realized that I wanted to create something similar, but more modern.

The buttons would be limited, the timeline would be interactive, and most importantly, I don’t want people to think about how to use it. I’m excited to get more into the sources and citation aspect of the course as well. As of right now, my main goal is to figure out how to implement that timeline if it is not a readily available theme.

Langston Hughes at 100

The Langston Hughes exhibition is curated in the Beinecke Library and is hosted through Yale University. The exhibition’s intended audience is anyone who wants to experience the collection through a multimedia format and see the files within the library. Langston Hughes gifted his papers, letters, manuscripts, and many more assortments of media to the library over the years which culminated into this collection.

While the general design is actually pretty great, the execution is a bit lackluster and is in desperate need of an update. For starters, the exhibit only works if you have Flash which is a fairly dated program.

The player has a Navigating category which explains how to use the exhibition which defies the entire concept of “Don’t Make Me Think!” A good online exhibition: 1) should not need a section to teach people how to use it, it should be intuitive 2) even it did, it should be clearly bulleted and not in the form of a paragraph.

Immediately after an intro video sequence (that can be skipped), it takes you to this screen that showcases all the media which, for some reason, cannot be clicked on. You must click Poet, Observer, or Artist (the differentiation is never explained) in order to click on the different pictures.

Clicking on a picture will open a small box that showcases a picture, some information, and occasionally some audio to describe the piece. This feature is great. It clearly states what the subject is, gives a brief overview, and provides relevant information. My only criticism is that it should move over to the side and be bigger. The entire player should be stretched-to-fit and not use Flash, but overall, the site isn’t bad. 

Aside from a complete structural overhaul, the idea of creating a multimedia, clickable timeline is great. There are a few tabs which displays important content, but no giant walls of text. For a Flash player designed in 2002 (from what I could tell from the Calendar tab), the site is pretty well designed.

I’d like my project to more or less be a more minimal version of this site. Obviously, it would not use Flash. I like the concept of having a few tabs of information for concepts and contact, but overall having it be very interactive and intuitive. Perhaps people could see men’s contemporary fashion and information about its major changes over the years through pictures, music media, and snippets of different articles.